Secret Trails and Forgotten Tea Estates
Most people meet Hanthana from a viewpoint. They arrive mid-morning, climb a well-worn path just outside Kandy, take in the famous rolling hills, snap a few photos, and leave thinking they’ve “done” it.
I thought the same—until I stayed longer, walked farther, and slipped past the familiar paths into the quieter folds of the range. That’s when Hanthana changed entirely.
Beyond the popular trails lies a landscape shaped by forgotten tea estates, half-swallowed bungalows, misty ridgelines, and paths used more by estate workers than weekend hikers. Hanthana after the crowds is slower, subtler, and far more intimate. It’s not about conquering a peak—it’s about wandering through a living, breathing chapter of Sri Lanka’s hill-country story.
First Morning in Hanthana: When the Hills Are Still Asleep
I woke before dawn to the sound of wind brushing tea leaves together a soft, collective sigh rolling across the slopes. From my window, the hills looked unfinished; edges blurred by mist, valleys holding onto the night just a little longer.
This is the hour Hanthana belongs to itself. By sunrise, the popular trails begin to stir. But earlier than that, the hills feel untouched, as if you’ve arrived before the world remembers you’re there. That’s when the hidden Hanthana reveals itself.
A Landscape Written in Tea and Time
Hanthana isn’t “wild” in the traditional sense. It’s cultivated, shaped by colonial ambition and generations of labor. Tea bushes trace the contours of the hills like handwriting. Stone steps appear suddenly, leading nowhere obvious. Old cart paths cut through grass, once busy with workers and horses, now quiet except for birds.
The beauty here isn’t dramatic—it’s cumulative. Every turn holds a reminder that these hills have been worked, lived in, and slowly reclaimed by nature.
What to See: Beyond the Usual Viewpoints
While most visitors cluster around the first two peaks, the true spirit of Hanthana is found in its neglected corners.
1. The Seven Peaks: A Test of Endurance
Most hikers stop at the second peak, satisfied with the view of Kandy. However, the Hanthana range consists of seven distinct peaks.
- The Transition: As you move toward the fourth and fifth peaks, the path narrows significantly. The grass grows waist-high (often called “Mana” grass), and the wind picks up.
- The Reward: By the time you reach the seventh peak, the urban sprawl of Kandy is long gone, replaced by a 360-degree panorama of the Laggala mountains and the Knuckles Range in the distance.
2. The Ceylon Tea Museum (The Old Hanthana Factory)
Housed in the 1925-built Hanthana Tea Factory, this museum is often bypassed by those racing for the summit. It is a cathedral of industrial history.
- The Machinery: You can see the original Wilken’s tea rollers and ancient drying fans.
- The Scent: The building still smells faintly of fermented tea leaves and old wood—a scent that defines the region’s DNA.
3. The Forgotten Uduwela Loop
If you follow the Uduwela Road rather than the main hiking trailhead, you enter a world of “forgotten” Hanthana.
- Abandoned Bungalows: You’ll find colonial-era structures with sagging roofs and gardens where roses still bloom amidst the weeds.
- Small Kovils: Tucked into the tea bushes are tiny, brightly colored Hindu shrines (Kovils) where estate workers leave fresh flowers. These are the spiritual anchors of the hills.
4. The University “Backdoor”
The upper reaches of the University of Peradeniya bleed directly into the Hanthana range. This area is a sanctuary for biodiversity.
- The Pine Forests: Lower down, you’ll find sections of pine forest where the ground is a soft carpet of needles—a sharp contrast to the jagged rocks of the peaks.
What to Do: The Art of Slow Exploration
Hanthana rewards those who trade their “summit fever” for a sense of curiosity.
1. Birdwatching in the Mist
Hanthana is an overlooked birding hotspot. Because it sits between the lowland and the high montane forests, you get a mix of species.
- What to look for: Keep an eye out for the Yellow-fronted Barbet, the Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot, and the elusive Red-faced Malkoha.
- The Experience: Bring binoculars and wait near the edge of a forest patch at 6:30 AM. The symphony of calls as the mist lifts is worth the early wake-up call.
2. The “Pol Rotti” Ritual
Near the trailheads and along the estate roads, you’ll find small wooden kiosks.
- The Order: Ask for Pol Rotti (coconut flatbread) with Lunu Miris (an onion and chili paste) and a hot ginger tea.
- The Vibe: Sitting on a wooden bench, watching the mist roll over the tea bushes while eating spicy rotti, is perhaps the most “authentic” Hanthana experience you can have.
3. Photography: Capturing the “Negative Space”
Most people take wide landscape shots. Instead, try focusing on the details:
- The way a single dewdrop hangs from a tea bud.
- The weathered hands of an estate worker.
- The textures of the moss-covered stone boundary markers from the 1800s.
4. Night Camping (With Caution)
For those who want to see the stars without the light pollution of Kandy, some spots on the lower ridges allow for camping.
A Note on Safety: Always check local weather reports. Hanthana is notorious for sudden “mountain mists” that can reduce visibility to zero in minutes.
A Comparison of Hanthana Routes
| Route | Difficulty | Highlight | Crowds |
| Main Trail (Peaks 1-2) | Moderate | Classic View of Kandy | High |
| The Full Seven Peaks | Hard | True Wilderness Feel | Very Low |
| Tea Museum Loop | Easy | Industrial History | Moderate |
| Uduwela Estate Road | Easy/Moderate | Abandoned Bungalows | Rare |
Where to Stay: Finding Your Base
Staying in the range is the only way to catch the blue hour—that magical time just before sunrise when the hills are indigo.
- Estate-Style Lodgings: Look for converted “Assistant Superintendent” bungalows. They offer high ceilings, teak furniture, and the silence of a bygone era.
- Homestays in Uduwela: These offer a chance to eat home-cooked Sri Lankan meals. You haven’t lived until you’ve had Hanthana-grown pepper in a chicken curry.
- The Peradeniya Edge: Staying near the university allows you to walk up through the campus and into the hills, combining academic architecture with natural beauty.
How to Get There: Navigating the Slopes
Hanthana’s accessibility is part of its charm—it’s close enough to reach easily, yet distant enough to feel removed.
- By Car/Tuk-Tuk: From Kandy city center, take the Hanthana Road past the General Hospital. The climb starts almost immediately. A tuk-tuk is actually better than a car for the narrower estate tracks.
- By Train: Take the train to Sarasavi Uyana station (near the university). From there, it’s a steep but beautiful uphill hike.
- The “Secret” Route: Enter through the Galaha Road side. It’s a longer drive from Kandy, but it takes you through some of the most pristine tea patches in the region.
The Practicalities: Leeches, Weather, and Gear
Let’s be candid: Hanthana is beautiful, but it can be prickly.
- The Leech Factor: If it has rained recently, the leeches will be out. They aren’t dangerous, just ambitious. Wear long socks and carry a small pouch of salt or “leech balm.”
- Hydration: There are no shops once you pass the initial tea estates. Carry at least 2 litres of water.
- Footwear: The “Mana” grass can be slippery, and the rocks are often loose. Trail shoes or hiking boots with good grip are non-negotiable.
- Weather: It can be 30°C in Kandy and 18°C on the Hanthana ridges. Bring a light windbreaker.
Walking Respectfully: An Ethical Note
These hills are not a theme park—they are a workplace and a home.
- The Pluckers: The women you see picking tea are working a gruelling job. Don’t thrust a camera in their faces without asking. A simple “Ayubowan” (May you live long) and a smile usually open doors to a brief, friendly exchange.
- Waste: There is no trash collection on the peaks. If you bring a plastic bottle up, you must bring it down. The Hanthana watershed provides water to thousands of people below; keep it clean.
- Private Property: Some bungalows are private residences. Respect the gates and fences.
Why Hanthana Matters
Travel often encourages us to move fast, see more, and check things off. Hanthana, after the crowd,s quietly resists that impulse.
It asks you to notice details instead of highlights. It asks you to walk without announcing your presence. It teaches you that the “best” view isn’t always the one on the postcard; sometimes, it’s the view of a mist-covered valley through the rusted frame of a forgotten estate gate.
As I left Hanthana, walking down one of those old stone paths with mist curling around my ankles, I realized I hadn’t taken many photos. Not because there wasn’t beauty, but because I didn’t want to interrupt it.
Hanthana, when you meet it on its own terms, doesn’t feel like a destination. It feels like a pause. A long, deep breath between the noise of the places we’re told to see and the quieter landscapes that choose us instead. And once you’ve walked these secret trails, the crowded viewpoints will never quite satisfy you again.
