Darwin to Broome by Road: A 4WD Adventure Through the Outback

Darwin to Broome by Road: A 4WD Adventure Through the Outback

by | Apr 4, 2025 | Australia

The call of the open road, the allure of the untamed wilderness – a 4WD adventure from Darwin to Broome promises an unforgettable journey through the heart of the Australian Outback. This iconic route, stretching across the Top End of the Northern Territory and into the rugged Kimberley region of Western Australia, offers a chance to witness dramatic landscapes, connect with ancient cultures, and experience the raw thrill of off-road exploration.

From cascading waterfalls and lush monsoon forests to vast savannah plains and ancient gorges, this expedition is a sensory feast, inviting travelers to disconnect from the everyday and immerse themselves in the grandeur of nature. This article serves as your comprehensive guide to planning this epic outback trip, providing essential information and inspiration for an adventure of a lifetime.

Charting the Course: Mapping the Ultimate Darwin to Broome 4WD Route

The journey from Darwin to Broome covers a significant geographical expanse, transitioning from the tropical north to the point where the Australian desert meets the sea.1 The route primarily traverses two major regions: the Top End of the Northern Territory, characterized by its monsoonal climate and diverse ecosystems, and the Kimberley region of Western Australia, renowned for its ancient landscapes, rugged gorges, and rich Indigenous heritage. Along this path, several key towns serve as crucial stops for travelers, offering opportunities for rest, resupply, and exploration.

These include Katherine, approximately three hours south of Darwin, marking the gateway to Nitmiluk National Park; Kununurra, the first major town in Western Australia after crossing the border, acting as the eastern gateway to the Kimberley; Derby, the oldest town in the Kimberley and the western access point to the Gibb River Road; and finally, Broome, the pearling town on the coast that marks the culmination of this incredible adventure.1 Smaller but equally significant locations punctuate the route, each offering unique experiences or essential services: Adelaide River and Pine Creek in the Top End, Edith Falls (Leliyn) within Nitmiluk National Park, Timber Creek just before the WA border, Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing in the heart of the Kimberley, and Willare Bridge en route to Derby.1

Travelers planning this journey have two primary route options. The most direct and time-efficient path is via the Great Northern Highway (National Route 1), which stretches over 3,204 kilometers and typically requires around 19.5 hours of driving time. This route is fully sealed and suitable for 2WD vehicles, offering a more straightforward passage between Darwin and Broome.2 However, for those seeking a quintessential 4WD adventure and a more immersive experience of the outback’s rugged beauty, the famed Gibb River Road presents an alternative.

This approximately 660km unsealed track winds through the heart of the Kimberley, renowned for its breathtaking gorges, challenging river crossings, and remote landscapes, exclusively requiring a well-equipped 4WD vehicle.1 While the Great Northern Highway offers convenience, the Gibb River Road delves deeper into the untamed heart of the Kimberley, promising a more challenging and ultimately more rewarding off-road journey.6 This article will primarily focus on the 4WD adventure, detailing a route that predominantly utilizes the Gibb River Road for an immersive outback experience, with connecting sections on the Great Northern Highway to reach Darwin and Broome.7

The Top End Beckons: Darwin to Katherine

The journey south from Darwin offers a captivating introduction to the Top End’s unique landscapes, with the first major highlight being Litchfield National Park, located approximately 115km south of Darwin.1 To truly appreciate the park’s beauty and diversity, an allocation of 2-3 days is highly recommended.1 Litchfield presents a gentler introduction to the outback compared to the Kimberley, with well-maintained roads leading to numerous easily accessible natural wonders. Key attractions include a variety of cascading waterfalls, such as the iconic Florence Falls, the multi-tiered Wangi Falls, and Tolmer Falls, known for its spectacular views from the lookout.1

Travelers can also enjoy refreshing swims in the natural rock pools of Buley Rockhole or the serene waters of Walker Creek campsites.1 A unique natural phenomenon within the park is the fascinating magnetic termite mounds, standing as tall, otherworldly structures.8 For those wishing to immerse themselves in the park’s natural beauty overnight, 2WD-accessible campgrounds are available, including Florence Falls and Walker Creek campsites.7

Continuing south, the small historic township of Pine Creek offers a glimpse into the region’s gold mining past and serves as a convenient midway stop between Litchfield and Katherine.1 Mayse’s Café in Pine Creek is a popular spot to grab a bite to eat, stretch your legs, and perhaps chat with locals, soaking in the town’s laid-back atmosphere.7 These smaller towns along the Stuart Highway provide valuable insights into the pioneering history that shaped the region beyond its natural attractions.

A short detour off the Stuart Highway leads to Edith Falls (Leliyn), a beautiful waterfall cascading into a pandanus-fringed pool, located on the western side of Nitmiluk National Park.1 This serene oasis offers a welcome opportunity for a refreshing swim in its cool waters.1 Access to Edith Falls requires payment of the standard entry fees for Nitmiluk National Park.7 These natural swimming spots are essential for travelers to cool down and rejuvenate during the often hot outback journey.

The next major stop is Katherine, affectionately known as “K-Town,” situated approximately three hours south of Darwin along the Stuart Highway and serving as the gateway to the renowned Nitmiluk National Park.1 The centerpiece of the park is the majestic Katherine Gorge, carved by the Katherine River through ancient sandstone cliffs.1 There are numerous ways to experience the beauty of the gorge: join a scenic cruise that navigates through the towering rock formations, take a refreshing dip in the designated swimming areas, hire a canoe to paddle along the tranquil waters, or opt for a breathtaking helicopter flight for a bird’s-eye view of the intricate gorge system.1

For those interested in the cultural significance of the area, engaging with a local Indigenous guide for a presentation on the rich Jawoyn culture is a highly recommended experience.1 Nitmiluk National Park also offers various accommodation options to suit different preferences, including powered caravan sites, comfortable cabins, and permanent tents, allowing visitors to extend their stay and fully immerse themselves in the park’s ambiance.1 Additionally, the nearby Katherine Hot Springs provides another opportunity to relax and soak in the naturally heated thermal pools.7 Katherine and Nitmiluk National Park together offer a compelling blend of awe-inspiring natural beauty and rich Indigenous cultural experiences, marking a significant transition into the heart of the Australian Outback.

Accommodation and dining options in the Katherine region are readily available to cater to travelers. Katherine boasts a selection of hotels, motels, and caravan parks offering a range of amenities and price points. While specific recommendations will follow further research, snippets 1 and 7 indicate the presence of these facilities. Similarly, Katherine offers various dining options, including restaurants and cafes, providing opportunities to refuel and enjoy local cuisine.

Crossing into the Kimberley: Katherine to Kununurra

The drive from Katherine into Western Australia via the scenic Victoria Highway is a journey that typically consumes most of the day, emphasizing the importance of an early start and ensuring your vehicle is well-prepared with ample petrol and water.1 Approximately two hours before reaching the Northern Territory – Western Australia border, travelers will encounter Timber Creek, a small outback town offering a chance to stretch your legs on its Heritage Trail and perhaps grab lunch.1 As you approach the border, just before crossing into Western Australia, Keep River National Park presents a fascinating stop.

This often-overlooked park is home to ancient Aboriginal rock art sites and striking sandstone structures that bear a resemblance to the famous Bungle Bungle Range.1 Crossing the state border signifies a distinct shift in the journey, as you enter the vast and rugged Kimberley region of Western Australia.1 It’s crucial to be aware of strict quarantine laws that prohibit carrying fresh food across the border, making it necessary to stock up on supplies in Kununurra, your first major stop in WA.1

Continuing west along the Victoria Highway, you’ll eventually reach Lake Argyle, the largest man-made lake in the Southern Hemisphere, situated about 75 kilometers south of Kununurra.1 An unexpected highlight here is the infinity pool at Discovery Parks – Lake Argyle, which offers breathtaking views over the expansive lake.1 For those with more time, an optional scenic cruise on Lake Argyle provides opportunities to spot crocodiles, wallabies, and a variety of rare birds against the backdrop of the lake’s picturesque mountain island scenery.4 Lake Argyle presents a surprising and welcome oasis in the outback, offering unique accommodation and recreational activities, including fishing for the prized barramundi in the Ord River.7

Finally, you’ll arrive in Kununurra, the first major town in Western Australia and a vital gateway to the Kimberley region.1 Kununurra itself offers attractions like the tranquil Lily Creek Lagoon, where you might spot the unique “Sleeping Buddha” rock formation, and Mirima National Park, often called the “mini Bungle Bungles” due to its spectacular walks amidst sandstone formations.7 Given the quarantine restrictions, Kununurra is the essential place to stock up on all necessary supplies before venturing further into the Kimberley.1 This town serves as a crucial resupply point and a central base for exploring the eastern part of the Kimberley before embarking on the iconic Gibb River Road.

Kununurra offers a range of accommodation options to suit various needs and budgets. Some popular choices include Hotel Kununurra 10, Kununurra Country Club Resort 10, The Cambridge Kununurra 10, Lily Lagoon Resort 10, The Kimberley Grande 10, and Discovery Parks – Lake Kununurra.11 For those traveling with caravans or camping gear, options like Kimberleyland Waterfront Holiday Park 12, Ivanhoe Village Caravan Resort 12, and Town Caravan Park & Villas 15 provide suitable facilities.

Dining in Kununurra is also well-catered for, with options like Kelly’s Bar & Grill at Kununurra Country Club Resort 22, The PumpHouse Kununurra offering culinary flair with lake views 25, and various cafes such as Kimberley Cafe and Ivanhoe Cafe.26 For a more casual pub atmosphere, Gullivers Tavern is a popular choice.29

Accommodation in KununurraPrice Range (Approx. per night)Description
Hotel Kununurra$100 – $250Central location, pool, restaurant, airport shuttle
Kununurra Country Club Resort$225 – $300Central, pool, gardens, near shops
The Cambridge Kununurra$230 – $500Modern rooms, restaurant, close to town center
Lily Lagoon Resort$140 – $210Lakeside location, pool, restaurant, caravan sites
The Kimberley Grande$170 – $300Central location, pool, restaurant, airport transfers
Discovery Parks – Lake Kununurra$90 – $220Lakeside, pool, cabins, caravan and camping sites
Kimberleyland Waterfront Holiday Park$85 – $225Central waterfront location, cabins, caravan and camping, cafe
Ivanhoe Village Caravan Resort$30 – $390Central, cabins, caravan and camping sites, pool
Town Caravan Park & Villas$155 – $235Secure location, villas, caravan and camping, pool, pet-friendly

Embarking on the Gibb River Road: Kununurra to Derby

The true 4WD adventure begins as you leave Kununurra and venture onto the legendary Gibb River Road, a roughly 660km unsealed track that carves through the heart of the Kimberley.1 The first major stop along this iconic route is El Questro Wilderness Park, located about 100km west of Kununurra.4 This vast, nearly 1-million-acre property offers a diverse range of landscapes and experiences, requiring at least a couple of days to explore properly.34 Key natural attractions within El Questro include the challenging 1.6km (one way) hike to Emma Gorge, rewarded by a pristine waterfall and a refreshing turquoise waterhole fed by a thermal spring.7 The serene Zebedee Springs offers a relaxing soak in natural thermal pools nestled amidst lush Livistona and Pandanus palms, open to the public from 7 am to noon.7

A tranquil cruise through the 3km-long Chamberlain Gorge provides a different perspective, with towering red cliffs and opportunities to spot local wildlife like rock wallabies and freshwater crocodiles.34 Finally, the crossing of the iconic Pentecost River, while requiring caution due to potential water depth and the presence of saltwater crocodiles, offers excellent barramundi fishing and stunning photographic opportunities with the Cockburn Ranges as a backdrop.34 El Questro offers a variety of activities, including guided hikes, horseback riding, barramundi fishing tours, and scenic helicopter flights over the park’s gorges and waterfalls.1 Accommodation options cater to all tastes, from the luxurious El Questro Homestead perched atop a cliff overlooking Chamberlain Gorge to the safari-style tented cabins at Emma Gorge Resort and the comfortable bungalows and camping facilities at El Questro Station.34 Dining options are available at Emma’s Restaurant at Emma Gorge and the Steakhouse Restaurant and Swinging Arm Bar at El Questro Station.34

Continuing along the Gibb River Road for approximately 120km from Kununurra, travelers will reach Home Valley Station (also known as HV8), a sprawling 3.5-million-acre working cattle station, Indigenous training facility, and tourist resort nestled at the foot of the majestic Cockburn Range.1 This station, owned by the Indigenous Land Corporation (ILC) on behalf of the Balanggarra people, offers a unique blend of cultural immersion and outback hospitality.54 Key attractions include the Cockburn Ranges Lookout, providing panoramic views of the dramatic landscape, the serene Bindoola Creek, and opportunities for barramundi fishing in the Pentecost River.1

Home Valley Station offers a range of accommodation options, from luxurious Riverside Suites overlooking Bindoola Creek to comfortable Homestead Deluxe Rooms, safari-style Eco Tents, and two campgrounds (Homestead Camp and River Bush Camp).61 Guests can enjoy quality Australian bush tucker, cold beer, and often live entertainment at the famous Dusty’s Bar & Grill.53 Notably, some scenes from the movie “Australia” starring Hugh Jackman and Nicole Kidman were filmed in this area.54

Just a short drive west of Home Valley Station lies the iconic Pentecost River crossing, a major and often photographed landmark on the Gibb River Road.46 While renowned as an excellent spot for barramundi fishing, travelers must exercise extreme caution due to the presence of saltwater crocodiles, making swimming highly dangerous.46 The crossing offers stunning panoramic views towards the Cockburn Ranges, particularly breathtaking at sunrise or sunset, making it a must-do photo opportunity.47 The river’s depth and flow are highly seasonal, with the crossing often challenging early in the dry season but becoming easier later in the year.47

Continuing west for approximately 77km from Home Valley Station 69, Ellenbrae Station presents a charming stop. This 1-million-acre cattle station is renowned for its warm hospitality and, in particular, its delicious homemade scones served with fresh cream and jam.1 Overnight guests can enjoy a dip in the station’s swimming holes and choose to stay in the campground or rustic Stockmans Cabins.1 Day visitors are welcome to relax in the homestead gardens and savor those legendary scones with a cup of tea or coffee.71 Ellenbrae also provides a water fill-up point for travelers and may offer tyre repair services.69

About 78-86km west of Ellenbrae Station 69 lies Mount Barnett Roadhouse, a vital mid-way point on the Gibb River Road.1 This roadhouse is essential for refueling (diesel and unleaded available), stocking up on basic supplies, and obtaining information about the road ahead. More importantly, it serves as the gateway to the magnificent Manning Gorge, located approximately 7km off the roadhouse.1 Reaching Manning Gorge involves a scenic but moderately challenging 3-hour 76 return hike, which includes crossing the Manning River (either by swimming or using provided floats). The reward is a stunning waterfall cascading into a large rock pool, perfect for a refreshing swim, and the chance to view ancient Aboriginal Bradshaw and Wandjina rock art on the gorge walls.1 Basic camping facilities are available at Manning Gorge Campground, with fees payable at the Mount Barnett Roadhouse (no bookings taken).77

Approximately 126km west of Mount Barnett Roadhouse 71 and 30km off the Gibb River Road via the 4WD-only Silent Grove Road lies Dalmanyi (Bell Gorge), one of the most iconic and picturesque gorges in the Kimberley.1 Bell Gorge is renowned for its dramatic cascading waterfalls flowing over a horseshoe-shaped rock wall into a large, clear pool, creating an idyllic setting for swimming and photography.73 The 2km return walk from the carpark (via Silent Grove Road) to the gorge is rated as Class 4, involving a steep initial descent and some rock scrambling.80 Accommodation options near Bell Gorge include Silent Grove Campground (basic facilities, bookings essential), APT Bell Gorge Wilderness Lodge (luxury tented cabins with meals included), and Imintji Campground (Indigenous-owned, near Imintji Community).79

Located 29km along Silent Grove Road from the Gibb River Road turnoff 147, Dulundi (Silent Grove) Campground provides a convenient base for exploring Dalmanyi (Bell Gorge), which is about 11km further northwest.79 The campground offers flush toilets and showers (generator and non-generator areas, no powered sites), and bookings are essential, particularly during the peak season from June to October.82

Continuing west along the Gibb River Road, travelers will reach Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park, approximately 146km west of Derby.1 This stunning gorge, carved by the Lennard River through the 375-million-year-old Devonian reef system of the Napier Range, features towering walls up to 100 meters high and deep freshwater pools.1 Windjana Gorge is home to an abundance of freshwater crocodiles and holds great cultural significance for the local Bunuba people, as the traditional land and the base for Jandamarra, a legendary Bunuba leader who led resistance against European settlers in the 1890s.73 An easy 3.5-kilometer walking trail winds through the gorge, offering opportunities to see fossilized marine life and various bird species.1 The Windjana Gorge Camp within the National Park provides both powered and unpowered campsites with necessary facilities.1

The final major attraction along the Gibb River Road before reaching Derby is Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) National Park, located about 38km southeast of Windjana Gorge.92 This unique park features a 750-meter-long natural tunnel carved by Tunnel Creek through the Napier Range, representing Western Australia’s oldest cave system.4 Exploring the tunnel involves wading through pools of cold water and requires a reliable torch and sturdy footwear. The cave is home to fascinating formations, various bat species, and freshwater crocodiles.91 Tunnel Creek also holds historical significance as a hideout for Jandamarra.4 It is a day-use area only with limited facilities, and camping is not permitted; the nearest campground is at Windjana Gorge.93

Accommodation and dining options along the Gibb River Road are varied, ranging from basic campsites at gorges like Manning Gorge and Silent Grove to comfortable station stays at Ellenbrae, Mount Elizabeth, and Home Valley, and more luxurious wilderness lodges such as APT Bell Gorge Wilderness Lodge and Mount Hart Wilderness Lodge.71 Roadhouses like Mount Barnett and Drysdale River Station are crucial for refueling and obtaining basic supplies and takeaway meals.74 Booking accommodation in advance is highly recommended, especially during the peak tourist season.101

The Final Leg: Derby to Broome

As the Gibb River Road adventure concludes, the final leg of the journey takes you from Derby to Broome, a distance of approximately 221km (2.5 hours drive) via a sealed road.73 Derby, the first town settled in the Kimberley, offers a fascinating blend of natural phenomena and rich history.73 A must-see is the Derby Jetty, where you can witness the dramatic tidal changes, the highest in Australia, and enjoy breathtaking sunsets over King Sound.73

Another significant landmark is the Boab Prison Tree (Kununudj), a massive ancient boab with a hollow trunk, holding cultural importance for the local Nyikina and Warrwa people and linked to the early settlement of Derby (though its use as a prison is debated).73 Visitors should also make time to explore the Mowanjum Aboriginal Art and Culture Centre, located near Derby, to view and purchase artworks by the traditional custodians of Wandjina law.1 For those interested in local history, the self-guided Pigeon Heritage Trail explores the story of the legendary Bunuba warrior Jandamarra.102

A visit to the Mowanjum Aboriginal Art and Culture Centre, situated about 10km southeast of Derby, offers a valuable opportunity to connect with the Indigenous heritage of the region.1 At the centre, visitors can view and purchase authentic artworks created by artists from the Worrorra, Ngarinyin, and Wunumbal tribes, the custodians of the sacred Wandjina law and iconography.1 The Mowanjum Museum provides an immersive and interactive experience, showcasing important pieces from their collection and the significant Selsmark Collection of dance totems and costumes.104

The final destination, Broome, is a vibrant and laid-back town where the red sands of the outback meet the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.1 Broome is famous for Cable Beach, a stunning stretch of pristine white sand perfect for relaxation, sunset camel rides, and exploring the local markets.2 The town boasts a unique blend of cultures, reflected in its diverse community and attractions.103

Broome offers a wide array of accommodation options, including luxurious resorts like Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa 108 and The Pearle of Cable Beach 108, along with comfortable hotels such as Moonlight Bay Suites 108 and Oaks Broome Hotel 108, as well as caravan parks like RAC Cable Beach Holiday Park.108 Dining in Broome is a treat, with numerous restaurants and cafes to choose from, including Matso’s Brewery 113, The Bay Club at Mangrove Hotel 113, and Papa Fuego.113

Planning Your 4WD Outback Adventure: Essential Guide

Undertaking a 4WD adventure from Darwin to Broome requires careful planning, and one of the most crucial aspects is choosing the right time of year. The dry season, which typically runs from May to October, is widely considered the best time to travel through this region.2 During these months, the weather is generally milder, with daytime temperatures ranging from 20°C to 30°C, and humidity levels are lower, making for more comfortable driving and camping conditions.119 Additionally, the risk of flooding is significantly reduced, ensuring better accessibility to roads and attractions, including the Gibb River Road and its numerous river crossings.67

Traveling early in the dry season (April-May) offers the advantage of witnessing waterfalls in their full glory and the landscape still lush and green from the preceding wet season, although some river crossings might still present a challenge due to higher water levels.2 It is strongly advised to avoid traveling during the wet season, which typically lasts from November to April, as heavy rainfall can lead to widespread flooding, road closures, and extremely high humidity, making travel uncomfortable and potentially dangerous.3

Preparing your vehicle and packing essential supplies are also paramount for a successful and safe outback journey. A reliable 4WD vehicle with high ground clearance is essential, especially if you plan to drive the Gibb River Road.3 Key supplies to include are at least two spare tyres (consider carrying three for very remote sections), a comprehensive tyre repair kit and a portable air compressor to adjust tyre pressures for different road conditions.3 Vehicle recovery gear such as snatch straps, shackles, and a shovel are crucial in case your vehicle gets bogged or stranded.126 A well-stocked first aid kit is non-negotiable for handling any minor injuries or emergencies.101 Given the hot climate, carrying ample drinking water is vital – aim for a minimum of 5-7 liters per person per day, plus an additional emergency supply.3

Pack sufficient non-perishable food for the duration of your trip, keeping in mind the limited availability of supplies in remote areas.3 Plan your fuel stops meticulously, as fuel stations can be few and far between, especially along the Gibb River Road, and consider carrying extra fuel in jerry cans.3 For navigation, bring detailed paper maps and a reliable GPS device, and consider downloading offline maps on your phone or tablet.126 A satellite phone or satellite communicator is highly recommended for remote areas where mobile phone coverage is unavailable.4 Other essential items include insect repellent, high-factor sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, sturdy and comfortable footwear, and a reliable torch or headlamp.3 Finally, don’t forget to research and pack any necessary National Parks Passes and other permits required for accessing certain areas.3

Safety should be a top priority when undertaking an outback adventure. Drive cautiously, especially on unsealed roads, and adjust your speed according to the road conditions. Be particularly vigilant during dawn and dusk, as wildlife, such as kangaroos and cattle, are often active and can pose a significant hazard.67 Water crossings require extreme caution; always check the water depth and flow before attempting to cross, and proceed slowly in four-wheel drive mode if you deem it safe.67 Be aware of the presence of both freshwater and saltwater crocodiles in the waterways, and never assume a waterhole is safe for swimming unless advised by locals.7 Given the remoteness of the journey, mobile phone service can be unreliable or non-existent in many areas, making a satellite phone or communicator a vital safety tool.4 It’s always a good practice to inform a trusted person about your detailed travel itinerary and expected return time, and to check in with them regularly during your trip.67

Access to certain areas along the Darwin to Broome route requires permits and passes. A Western Australia Parks Pass is needed for entry into several National Parks, including Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek National Parks; these can often be purchased online, at visitor centers, or sometimes at the park entrance itself.3 Specific permits are required for El Questro Wilderness Park, with options for day or week passes available for purchase at the station township or Emma Gorge.36 For accessing the Mitchell Plateau and Mitchell Falls, an Uunguu Visitor Pass is necessary.94 Additionally, many gorges and station stays along the Gibb River Road may have their own entry fees or camping charges that are payable on-site.77 If you plan to visit any Aboriginal communities, such as those on the Dampier Peninsula, it’s essential to research and obtain the required entry permits beforehand.103

From Darwin’s Top End to Broome’s Coast: An Unforgettable Outback Odyssey

The 4WD adventure from Darwin to Broome is more than just a road trip; it’s an odyssey through the heart of Australia’s captivating Outback. From the tropical allure of Darwin and the Top End’s cascading waterfalls to the rugged grandeur of the Kimberley’s ancient gorges and the coastal charm of Broome, this journey offers an unparalleled tapestry of landscapes and experiences. The thrill of navigating unsealed tracks, the awe-inspiring beauty of remote natural wonders, the connection with ancient Indigenous cultures, and the simple pleasure of camping under a star-studded sky – these are the indelible memories that await those who answer the call of the Outback. With careful planning and a spirit of adventure, this Darwin to Broome expedition promises to be an unforgettable exploration of one of the world’s last great wilderness areas.

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