Some places in Sri Lanka feel ancient. Others feel sacred.
And then there is Ussangoda—a place that feels like the Earth herself has paused mid-sentence.
I first heard about Ussangoda while scrolling through local folklore late one rainy night. The words red soil, meteorite impact, and sacred to ancient gods pulsed across the screen, and I knew immediately: I had to go. I had to stand on that strange plateau where the land burns crimson and the wind tastes faintly of salt and secrets.
This is the story of my journey to the southern edge of Sri Lanka, where the ground glows and myths walk beside you.
Getting There: From Katunayake Airport to Sri Lanka’s Red Planet
Bandaranaike International Airport sits on the opposite end of the island from Ussangoda, but the journey is half the adventure.
I had three options:
Option 1: Private Car / Taxi
I chose the freedom of the open road. With a private car, the journey becomes a slow unfolding—from coastal plains to lush wilderness to the sun-blasted south. I stopped whenever I pleased:
to sip king coconut under the shade of a lonely palm,
to photograph a peacock strutting across the asphalt like a model late for a runway,
to watch the ocean turn bluer as I travelled south.
The southern highway slices the journey into smooth, meditative hours.
Option 2: Airport Bus + Southern Train
A more spirited choice.
Bus from the airport to Colombo Fort → train to Matara.
The train hugs the sea, running so close that if you stretch your imagination, you can almost dip your fingers into the waves.
Option 3: Long-distance Bus
It’s chaotic, colorful, and very Sri Lankan.
I tried the bus for one leg of the return journey—conductors calling out stops, sinhala baila music blasting, windows flung open to welcome the warm Madampe breeze.
Whichever direction you choose, you eventually reach Hambantota or Tangalle, the nearest major towns. From there, Ussangoda is a short drive—closer to the ocean than I expected, perched above waves that crash like impatient poets.
First Impressions: As If Mars Crashed into Sri Lanka
When I arrived at Ussangoda National Park, I didn’t walk in—I stepped onto another planet.
The ground was red. Not terracotta red. Not brick red.
A deep, rusted, iron-rich red that seemed to glow from within.
The soil was dry and cracked, yet strangely soft under my feet. Sparse tufts of green poked through like reminders that life insists on existing even in the most alien places.
The wind blew strong—salty, unfiltered, and carrying whispers from the sea below. The plateau spread before me in a wide, barren expanse, bordered by cliffs where the Indian Ocean hurled itself against the land in white sprays of drama.
I stood there for a long moment, toes pressing into the warm earth, trying to understand it.
Ussangoda doesn’t welcome you.
It confronts you—bold, silent, unapologetically otherworldly.
A Place of Myth: Where Stories Hold as Much Weight as Soil
Locals will tell you Ussangoda is cursed. Or blessed. Or both.
Three main legends swirl around this scarlet plateau:
1. The Playground of the Giant-God Ravana
Some believe this was Ravana’s landing site for his mythical flying machine, the Dandu Monara. The red earth is said to be burnt by its power.
2. The Place Struck by a Meteorite
Scientists suggest a different kind of fire—one that fell from the sky, shaking the land into this strange formation. The soil composition supports this theory, with unusual mineral levels.
3. A Sacred Ground Where Fire Once Lived
Certain communities claim this was once home to ancient rituals, protected fiercely by nature itself.
Walking across the plateau, all these myths feel plausible. The ground feels charged, like a story waiting for someone to retell it.
What to See: A Landscape That Defies Expectations
Ussangoda is not large, but every corner shifts your perspective:
1. The Great Red Plains
The heart of Ussangoda.
A flat, endless space where the wind paints ripples on the soil. From certain angles, it looks like an abandoned battlefield of gods—quiet, monumental, timeless.
2. Cliffside Ocean Views
Walk to the edges and the world suddenly drops away.
The ocean is wild here—blue, foaming, alive. Fishermen’s boats look like tiny prayers tossed upon waves.
3. The Mini Savannah Patch
A surprising section of grassland softens the harsh red earth. Birds hop through the grass, dragons (Sri Lankan lizards) sunbathe, and the occasional cow wanders through as if contemplating life.
4. The Hidden Paths Toward the Sea
Small footpaths lead you closer to the cliff edges. The views are unbeatable—raw coastline, rock pools, and the horizon stretching into infinity.
5. The Red-to-Blue Color Clash
One of my favourite visual shocks happens at sunset.
The sky goes gold and violet while the ground glows copper. It feels like watching fire meet water.
What to Do: Slow Down, Wander, Absorb
Ussangoda isn’t an itinerary. It’s a mood.
Still, here’s what I did (and loved):
• Walk the Entire Plateau
It won’t exhaust you physically, but it will reshape your sense of space. The silence itself feels like a companion.
• Find the Best Cliff for Sunset
I parked myself at the western edge, where the sky melted slowly into lavender-orange, and a soft hush settled over everything.
• Photography—Natural, No Filters Required
The contrast of red earth against blue sea is a photographer’s dream.
I didn’t touch my saturation settings once.
• Spot Wildlife
Ussangoda is home to:
peacocks,
sea eagles,
lizards,
rabbits,
wandering cattle that seem to have philosophical depth.
• Sit Down & Let the Wind Speak
This place rewards those who sit still. I lay back on a flat rock and watched clouds drift lazily. The earth felt warm beneath me—alive.
Where to Stay: The Charm of the Deep South
Accommodations around Ussangoda come in three flavours:
1. Beachfront Cabins in Tangalle
Wooden huts, palm shadows, waves greeting you before you’re fully awake. Great for travellers who want the ocean as their neighbour.
2. Eco-Resorts Near Ranna & Ambalantota
These stay options blend wild with comfort. Expect:
quiet garden spaces,
hammocks strung between trees,
early-morning bird calls instead of alarms.
3. Family-Run Guesthouses
My personal favourite.
Local breakfasts, warm hosts, and stories shared over cups of tea. The best ones sit just 10–15 minutes from Ussangoda, making it easy to visit during golden hours.
Wherever you stay, the southern hospitality wraps around you like sunshine on skin.
Day Two: Exploring the Neighbours — Kirinda & Kudawella
Though Ussangoda steals the show, the surrounding region is a treasure chest waiting to be opened.
• Visit the Fisheries of Kudawella
Watch fishermen haul in their morning catch—an explosion of colour, noise, and sea spray.
• Walk Along the Silent Beaches of Ranna
Wide, uncrowded, and beautifully dramatic. Perfect for those who want a beach without the bustle.
• Stop at Kalametiya Bird Sanctuary
A peaceful wetland where flamingos sometimes visit. I spent an hour here drifting in a small boat, watching birds skim across the water.
• Pay a Quick Visit to the Blow Hole (Hummanaya)
Nature’s geyser—spectacular when the sea is rough.
• And Always Come Back to Ussangoda Before Sunset
I returned each evening.
Some places pull you back without asking permission.
The Food: Fiery, Fresh, and Southern to the Bone
The deep south has a culinary personality that is bold and unapologetically spicy.
Here’s what I devoured:
Ambul Thiyal (sour fish curry)
Polos Curry (young jackfruit, smoky and tender)
Fresh prawns grilled over coconut husk fires
Gotukola sambol (green, bright, refreshing)
Kiribath with lunumiris
Sweet bananas the size of your palm but ten times the flavour
Eating by the beach at night, with the sound of waves eating the shore, made every meal feel like an offering.
The People: Sun-Kissed, Warm, and Endlessly Curious
The southern communities are some of the friendliest I’ve met in Sri Lanka.
Fishermen explained the tides.
A grandmother in Ranna insisted I take home a bag of homemade spicy mixture.
A teenager in Hambantota asked if I was “chasing the red land,” which I found both poetic and accurate.
No one is surprised that you came for Ussangoda.
They expect you to be drawn to its mystery.
One old man said to me:
“The land calls some people. If she calls you once, she will call you again.”
I didn’t correct him.
I think he’s right.
Leaving Ussangoda: A Red Afterglow That Follows You
As I drove away on my final day, I looked back at the plateau through the rear-view mirror. The red earth shimmered in the morning sun like a dormant ember.
Ussangoda is not beautiful in the soft, postcard-way.
It’s beautiful in a primordial, unsettling, unforgettable way.
It lingers.
It stains your feet.
It stains your imagination.
It stains something deeper—the part of you that still feels wonder.
When people ask me about Ussangoda now, I say:
“It’s the place where Sri Lanka briefly remembers her fires.”
And in some small way, I think she remembered me too.
